*This is one of our first entries since back in 2018 (pre Covid GASP). In the foreseeable future, posts will likely be a mix of entries, jumping around different trips across the past seven years*

Day: 5 (9th November 2024) 13.8km

There’d been more rain during the night, although the wind through the needle like She-oak (Casuarina) leaves had convinced us during the early morning that the rain had been constant, and was still going as we roused ourselves and emerged for the day.

The morning was cool and crisp, so a hot beverage over breakfast was well received, and with several kids & parents busying themselves playing, preparing for the day, or breaking down camp, it was without doubt the most active campsite we’d been in for the walk to date (when we’d left the large school group we’d shared camp with for 2 nights, they’d mostly not been up before we’d started walking for the day).

To our surprise, the posse of parents with kids (impressively they were all carrying their own packs), Ben, Kez & their friends, were all packed & actually hit the trail a few minutes before us (my need to use the eco loo just prior to departure likely playing a part there)!

There were patches of blue in the sky, but it remained largely grey & cool, the foliage damp as a result of the overnight showers.

A short distance from the camp, the path emerged in a wide open, grassy patch atop the cliffs.

Turns out this was a Paragliding/Hang Gliding launch spot!

Nobody was around at this early hour, but it was an unexpected sight for sure.

The trail took us through a farm gate (any gates one finds needs to be closed behind once we’ve passed through), and was a bit of a rutted affair, I’m assuming used for a tractor given paddocks sat below us as we skirted the edge of a large hill.

Along this muddy thoroughfare, we met up with, and walked along with the family group for a time, before the ascent became a bit too much for some and we separated from the group, like a breakaway from the peloton in the Tour de France!

We were headed uphill & away from the coast to start the day, this farm track eventually becoming a gravel road, eventually surrounded be much taller eucalypts and quite a few damp, muddy sections where ferns seemed to thrive.

Plenty of ups & downs, with some of the climbs surprisingly long.

Eventually our track (Old Coach Rd) met a junction with the Melanesia Track, where we took a left turn and began the journey back towards the coast, a sizeable mob of Kangaroos in an adjacent field disinterestedly looking on.

There were a few more signs of habitation along this road, with the odd farm or house to our left, whilst to the right looked to be some sort of Pine plantation.

It was relatively easy, if largely uninspiring walking, so we were looking forward to either reconnecting with the coast, or at least some sort of forest.

We passed a colourfully clad captain, complete with boat offering water to those thirsty.

Laden with plenty of water, we saw no need to resupply.

Had it been a beer however…

Eventually the road ended at a large steel gate (seriously, the poles that formed this barrier were thick) with no obvious means to open it.

Thus, an awkward looking scramble over, and we were back in the woods on our way back down towards the beach.

The signage at this point suggested we only had 6 & a half kilometres to go until camp, so we were making good time, and a short walk through the eucalyptus forest had the ocean in sight once more, and a startled Swamp Wallaby wondering what we were all about!

The path down towards the beach was like a rutted road… and in fact, that’s what it was.

Long before this area was designated a National Park, some people had a house down near Milanesia Beach (something of a quirk perhaps, the road to the beach is named the Melanesia Track, a difference a lone, rogue vowel), and the original owners are still allowed access.

Apparently it’s rarely used, so it was with some surprise we saw a car parked at the stone cottage, and a tent pitched nearby!

On the beach itself, we were faced with a small water crossing where a small creek met the ocean, and to our surprise, a pair of hikers also sat in the sand, waiting for goodness knows what…

We tiptoed over the trickle of water, then decided to take a small break at the base of the cliffs, share a few lollies & consult our guidebook.

To my surprise, whilst fidgeting in the sand, I found a small pocket knife as well, with a retractable blade in surprisingly good condition (not a single mark of rust)!

It was only a short beach section, before we were headed back inland after another small creek crossing, the path up from Milanesia Beach running along the side of the gully through which the creek flowed.

Plenty of lush, damp grass to slap our legs, as we began a reasonably long & taxing climb.

Some sections had steps installed, but for the most part it was a narrow trail through the slick grass.

Eventually, the incline slackened and the surrounding trees became more robust, as we neared the top, the trail now far gentler as it hugged the cliff top and the coast.

The path hugged the curves of the coast, snaking in and out, relatively flat for a good stretch, fringed by a variety of vegetation.

Coastal scrub, Ti-Tree, Eucalyptus, even patches of hanging vines and blackberries.

Occasionally, smaller paths would intersect, several of which had ‘Private’ signs, which we assumed belonged to properties not too distant.

We couldn’t see, nor hear any sign of them, so it was hard to actually tell how far away they might actually be.

The path was quite high above the beach, at least when there was a beach, and on those narrow sections of rock or sand we could at times spy from above, we were able to spy all manner of flotsam & jetsam.

Wave worn wood, the odd buoy, rubbish, driftwood… all sorts!

We snaked our way onwards, a section claiming rock falls were common & not to linger putting a spring in our step.

One section even sported wooden railings, such was the precarious position of the path, but the views remained stunning, even with the grey skies.

The ups & downs became steeper, some sections providing assistance in the form of large stones to form steps, others, only the trail itself.

Then we hit the staircase.

You’d think a set of stairs would be easier, and on one hand it is.

Height is gained quickly, the steps are evenly spaced… but this staircase was long, and after four or five sections of climbing, the lungs and legs were certainly feeling it!

A bench seat at the top, a welcome place to rest indeed.

The trail now, was mostly flat, snaking its way onwards, sometimes clear, often through tunnels of Melaleuca before finally, a large sign indicated the end of our day (well, almost).

Ryan’s Den Campsite was only 150m further!

We were the first to arrive in camp again, so had the pick of the campsites, opting for one both near the point (the camp sits on a forested headland), and low enough so as to be mostly sheltered from the winds.

By now “pros” at erecting this small tent, it wasn’t long before it was fully erected, we were kicking around camp in our thongs (flip flops, not underwear) with a collection of socks and tops hanging over branches to either breath, or dry.

Like each camp along the GOW, Ryan’s Den also boasts a camp shelter, where we spent much of the afternoon reading, sipping tea, and playing the odd game of baseball courtesy of a small game I’d bought off Etsy.

Dinner tonight was, like back at Aire River, Honey Beef Stir Fry, however, unlike back on that 3rd night, we were less stingy with our gas, so actually cooked it properly, didn’t make it too watery and it proved itself delicious!

We’d hoped for a glorious sunset from atop the headland, however, whilst a lovely evening, the cloud put an end to any hopes we had to witness a glorious orb descend below the horizon, so with the the temperature dipping, we retired to rest, ready to tackle another day on the trail, tomorrow…

* Reservations for each campsite was made via the Parks Victoria website and cost us $18.50 per site

Jump back to Day 4 of our Great Ocean Walk Adventure HERE

Continue to Day 6 of our Great Ocean Walk Adventure HERE